We picked up Penny and Tim at their hotel with a driver. We had a three hour drive in front of us, but I was looking forward to it, since it would really give us time to view the Mexican countryside. I love looking at the different types of terrain in the world. In a strange sort of way, it is what makes us separate by various foods that grow in the soil and the indigenous products that arise; however, it is also the reason we visit others not only to spend time with them, but also enrich our lives and taste-buds.
Small little aside: At San Angel Inn, I had asked Penny if she had ever had nopales (cacti), epazote (a Mexican herb) or huitalcoche (corn smut: more on this later). I knew that she had but was surprised by the negative reaction. Nopales, when made correctly, is very mild in flavor with almost a citrus flavor. Epazote, an indigenous herb, is often called Mexican “tea” and is used in a variety of ways such as flavoring for quesadillas (cooked) to burritos (fresh) and is often paired with huitalcoche. All three were used by the Aztecs and for the Mexican truffle (the American gourmet term) is considered a delicacy. Of course, when used properly the ingredients offer unusual flavors not found in our American dishes.
As we drove through Mexico, it reminded me of New Mexico, with its high desert arid air, Joshua trees and cacti proliferating throughout. Occasionally, we would see ranches with goats, cows and horses. It was a week before Easter Sunday and on the highway’s curb, we would pass a procession of bicyclists. I yelled up to our driver, Victor,” What are they doing?”
Victor said, “That’s a pilgrimage for St. John and Easter.” There were hundreds if not thousands of people riding bikes, some of them with Saint John the Baptist literally carrying “Juan”. He was a small effigy encased in wood and glass tied to the many of their backs as they made their way to San Juan del Rio. I’m not sure why but it was interesting to witness as part of the Mexican culture.
After the long drive, lots of water due to the dry air, which resulted in a couple of stops, we made it to Casa de Sierra Nevada in San Miguel de Allende.
San Miguel is a small town, located in the “Corazon” (heart of Mexico) or Centro de Mexico. It holds an important place in Mexico’s revolution as Miguel de Allende, was one of the heads of the Mexican revolution and its independence from Spain.
First, we went to have lunch at the hotel’s restaurant Andande. The hotel is made up of nine buildings and truly is one of the most indigenous experiences one can have South of the Border. Six of them consist of rooms and and two restaurants, Andande and El Parque. The other three, house the administrative, a spa, a cooking school and gift shop.
Quite frankly, there isn’t a narrative to describe the hotel. Each room is different from the other as is each building. Unique courtyards, unusual fountains, and different layouts proliferate the hotel. Additionally, the hotel is located about a five minute walk from the center of San Miguel or “El Jardin” (The Garden).
“El Andande” has a large courtyard and an area were the tables are placed with a soothing water feature and depending upon where you sit, guests can have a view of the fireplace, Casa Azul which is the bar, or a street view and watch residents promenade.
Tim and Penny were ensconced in the area that former Presidente de Mexico, Victor Fox, stays. It has a small fountain outside, mini-bar and a large tub that fit two. (Never mind why I know that, it was a discussion over dinner.)
Paul and I stayed in one of the Pool Villas. It was a two story room with an outside patio that was on the second floor that included a plunge pool, a small living area and a dining spot overlooking the Cathedral.
Penny kept saying, “I have never been in a room so luxurious.” This is from a woman who has been to Paris thirty times.









